Ola! I am totally excited to tell you guys my last expedition with Arsitektur Hijau (it's sort of organisation in my campus, exploring more about vernacular architecture; you can see the website
here). Start from the third of July and ended up on fourteenth of July, my friends and I (we were 22 individuals) went to Tanimbar Kei, a not-so-small island in Kei Islands, Southeast Maluku. We went with just one big carrier to keep the clothes and survival kit, and a backpack to keep the data safe. So basically the expedition is about going to a small village that still has vernacular architecture and local traditions. Our journey to Tanimbar Kei wasn't easy, we had to use airplane to Ambon, and a big ship to Langgur City, and a medium boat to Tanimbar Kei. It took a day and a half to get there from Bandung. The big ship took 20 hours of the trip. TWENTY HOURS, and we didn't get a good place to stay on the ship, we stayed at the deck of it! It was cold of sea wind but it was fun and unforgettable experience!
When we reached the village by the boat, we were welcomed by the most friendly people I've ever met. They welcomed us very well. We were separated into four groups to stay in four houses, but for eating and discussing the data we were going to take, it's in the house that has large terrace and its location was quite strategic.
Tanimbar Kei is a big island for me, it has a lot of resources from nature, such as coconuts, woods, fish, and beautiful sceneries. It only has one big village administratively, but local people separated into three villages, Mun Village (most of the people are Muslims), Bottom Village and Upper Village (it's up in the hill and still has traditional houses with strong traditions and sacred places in it). Bottom and Upper Villages are separated by the height and high contour, yet they are connected by wood stairs named El Yub which is almost perpendicular. But there are two other stairs that made of concrete (they were from the government).
I'm going to talk a lil bit (more to share in the
next post) about the vernacular houses that located in Upper Village (Kampung Atas). There are more than 20 traditional houses that has different functions other than just a house and each house has its own function and name based on the background of the first ancestor that built the house. I give you an example, it is Rahan Teli (Teli house, people call Rahan for houses, especially for traditional houses). Rahan Teli has the other function to keep all of the farm's product. It's 'hotong', the main food for people in Tanimbar Kei and it has high nutrition as well.
I learned so much here in Tanimbar Kei. One thing I feel like it's sad leaving Tanimbar Kei was the people. They are differently unique from the other people outside the island. Tanimbar Kei has five religions (Hindu, Protestant, Catholic, Muslim, and Advent) and the people live peacefully. I mean, how can it be so easy for them? It's very magical seeing them respecting each other's religion and still gather as a big family. They were all kind, down-to-earth, and wise. The children were all easy-going and fun. Mostly I spent my time talking to local people there, and we understood the language we spoke (most of them can speak Bahasa, but still fluent speaking their mother tongue), and I enjoyed listening to their life sharing and how they live in Tanimbar Kei; it was very simple yet it brought me joy. They taught me it is okay not to have everything, as long as you have what you need and who you love. It's sad when my friends and I leaving them. Luckily I took pictures of them, well not all of them, just some. I always remembered to bring my analog camera, so yea I captured them and there were some great moments which were captured as well. Enjoy.
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This is Mr. Dodi, they call him Pak Pejabat a lot. He's one of the important people in the village. |
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This old man believes his ancestors can protect him if he can protect the nature sacred things, so does everyone in the
village. |
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She's the wife of the old man (a picture before this one). |
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She lives in a house called Rahan Vetung (Vetung House). |
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This is Mr. Tam. He's popular because he can't stop talking about anything! He's super funny, also friendly, just like
the other men in the village. |
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Kids were sitting beside the babies' graves. |
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Oh, what a favourite part to take a picture of. This was a man cutting a giant grouper fish for the main object of worship
and 'offerings' to the ancestors. Mostly it's for offerings, the rest was for the village people, including me and my
friends (the village's visitors). |
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Look how excited he cut the fish. The meat's so thick, so was the skin; it's like tripes! |
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A local kid started to look at me and ask who I was. I introduced myself and asked him to be pictured by me. |
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This is Iped (I have no idea if the spelling's true or not). He likes to swim and directs a boat to places around the island. |
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This is Nela and her friend. They seem to be shy in this picture, but they're actually kind and energetic. |
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These little girls got a bit talent of modeling, look at their natural poses! |
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This is Mr. Is, he accompanied me most of the time with two of my friends (the interview group). He was making a
'janur' for the ritual ceremony to avoid the diseases in the village, offered for the ancestors to protect the village and its people. |
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Mid age women made a lot of empty 'ketupat' that shaped like animals and swords. These were made for the ritual
ceremony to avoid the diseases too. Made in the morning, delivered in the middle of the receding shore at dusk. |
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This is Mr. Cada, he used to be a boxing player and joined some competitions in Jakarta, but he came back to Tanimbar
Kei to be a head of Rahan Tokyar (Tokyar House). |
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He cut the wood with saw. People nowadays rely on technology, even people of Tanimbar Kei are quite open to
machines that help them making traditional houses. |
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Two cutie little boys after jumping to the Goa Inanam (the cave that had a private pool in it). :) |
All photos were taken by Yashica fx3 super 2000 and film Kodak 200.
mantep
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